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Deal Check

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Faster answer

Upload the worksheet instead of rebuilding the whole deal from scratch.

Better context

Catch when a lower payment is only lower because more cash moved into the drive-off.

Reusable check

Use the same standard every time the dealer revises the quote.

Upload the worksheet

Start with the actual worksheet so you are judging the real offer, not the dealer's summary of it.

See the real monthly cost

Break the deal into depreciation, finance fee, and due-at-signing so the payment stops feeling like a black box.

Negotiate with context

Use the result alongside live market listings so you know whether to accept the deal, push back, or keep shopping.

How lease math works

Every lease payment comes down to depreciation and finance charge. Add tax, and you have the monthly number on the worksheet.

Cap Cost (Capitalized Cost)

The selling price of the car. This is usually your biggest negotiation lever.

Adjusted Cap Cost = Negotiated Price − Down Payment

Residual Value

The manufacturer's projected value at lease end. Higher residuals usually mean lower payments.

Residual Value = MSRP × Residual %

Money Factor

The lease version of an interest rate. Dealers can mark it up, so always ask which base rate the quote used.

Finance Fee = (Cap Cost + Residual) × Money Factor

Typical Money Factors by Brand (May 2026)

Use these as rough benchmarks, then verify the current base money factor before you sign.

BrandTypical MFAPR Equiv.
Toyota0.001503.6%
Honda0.001253.0%
Mazda0.001453.5%
Lexus0.001603.8%
Kia0.001754.2%
Audi0.001894.5%
Mercedes0.002004.8%
BMW0.002255.4%

Questions shoppers ask before signing

What is a money factor?

A money factor is the lease equivalent of an interest rate, expressed as a small decimal (e.g. 0.00150). To convert it to an approximate APR, multiply by 2,400 — so 0.00150 equals a 3.6% APR. Money factors are set monthly by the manufacturer's finance arm and are not negotiable, though dealers may mark them up. Always ask for the base money factor.

What is residual value?

Residual value is the manufacturer's prediction of what the car will be worth at the end of your lease term, expressed as a percentage of MSRP. A higher residual means lower monthly payments because you're only paying for a smaller portion of the car's depreciation. Residuals are set by the manufacturer and are not negotiable — but they vary significantly by model and term length.

Should I put money down on a lease?

Generally, no. A down payment (cap cost reduction) lowers your monthly payment, but you lose that money forever if the car is totaled or stolen early in the lease — your insurance pays the residual to the leasing company, not your down payment back to you. Instead, consider a multiple security deposit (MSD) program if your manufacturer offers it, which lowers your money factor and is refunded at lease end.

How do I find the base money factor?

The base money factor is published monthly by the manufacturer's finance arm (e.g. Toyota Financial Services, BMW Financial Services). Enthusiast forums like Edmunds' Lease Hacking forum publish current MF and residual data for most brands monthly. You can also ask the dealer directly — they're required to disclose it. Compare the number they quote to the published base to see if they've marked it up.

What's a good money factor?

A money factor below 0.00150 (3.6% APR) is excellent. Between 0.00150 and 0.00200 (3.6%–4.8% APR) is competitive. Above 0.00250 (6.0% APR) is on the expensive side — worth comparing to a traditional auto loan. In the current rate environment, Toyota and Honda tend to offer the most competitive money factors, often below 0.00150 on their core models.

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